The messy side of the make-up industry: «I didn’t want to be part of the problem»

Sophia, you’ve already achieved what many people dream of. How do you make it to Fashion Week as a make-up artist?
I asked my lecturers the same thing after I’d completed my course. Back then, my biggest aspiration was to work for Chanel one day. One of my instructors said I’d have to go to London, Paris or Milan. So there was nothing for it: next stop London.

Was it as simple as that?
I had to save up first. That’s why after my course at the age of 21 I looked for a job at Mac in Switzerland. Back then, that brand was still the number one in make-up artist circles. Luck was on my side, as I received an internship offer from London as part of my job. I worked there for two years in Soho in the Pro store. That’s a special branch with an extended range geared towards professionals. I stayed longer than planned.

Why?
I liked it there too much to go back. At that time, I met famous people on a daily basis, from make-up pros to artists and musicians. That’s what gave me the opportunity to assist well-known make-up artists, including Katie Jane Hughes.

OK, wow! I love Katie!
She’s great. I worked with her for six months in New York amongst other places. I also got to know her when she was a customer in the Mac store. She wasn’t as well known back then, but today she does make-up for megastars like Dua Lipa.

That must have been an exciting time.
It certainly was. Off the back of working as an assistant, I finally got a contract with the big agencies. I did this for a few years until I was asked, «Are you ready for the Mulberry show in London?» I was so ready. After that, I became part of the show teams, my network grew and the whole thing took on a life of its own. My portfolio expanded and other cities and popular brands followed.

Brands like Chanel?
Yes. Being booked by Chanel was the most defining moment of my career. It was a nice full circle moment. Ever since I was 14, I wanted to be a make-up artist. I’m not entirely sure where that desire came from. I just knew it was what I wanted. That’s why I enjoyed watching fashion stuff on TV after school. There was a channel that showed the important shows. Chanel made a big impression on me back then.

That must have been a great feeling. What happened after that?
I got to the point where I wondered if that was it. Was there anything else I wanted to do? For a while, I had a bit of a crisis. It was a good time to come back to Switzerland and build up a new network here.

Is there anything that people underestimate about your job?
The mental toll of self-employment. I had to learn to deal with uncertainty. Quiet times, financial downturns. Not everyone can cope with that. You have to be flexible and believe in yourself.

I hadn’t thought about that at all. I would’ve said something along the lines of the cost of your work materials. I’d imagine it’s expensive to have the right foundation for every skin tone and type.
What a lot of people don’t know is that make-up artists can get discounts with some brands if they can prove they work in the field. Mac, for instance, offers a 40% discount. Artists are now also getting brand sponsorships. Obviously, you have to invest a lot at the very beginning, but compared to other artists such as photographers, the outlay is relatively low.

Do you have a signature look that people come to you specifically for?
The natural glowy look that’s very popular in Switzerland right now. That’s also my own personal favourite. It makes your skin look fresher and younger.

Any tips on the best way to achieve this look?
It all comes down to the perfect base. That’s why I use a lot of moisturising products before applying make-up. After the moisturiser, I give my clients a facial massage to stimulate blood circulation. This also makes the skin appear plumper. The better the skin is prepared, the better the make-up goes on and the less product you need.

Which beauty tool couldn’t you live without?
Hands down my lash curler. It makes such a big difference, as it really opens up the eye. I recently lost the bent rubber bit from my curler and couldn’t find my replacement anywhere. As a result, I just couldn’t work properly. For all the other elements, I’d be able to use my hands or cotton buds as a workaround. That’s not possible with the curler.

Who or what inspires you?
That keeps changing. From an artistic point of view, Lisa Butler is my biggest inspiration. She was the team lead make-up artist who I worked with at Chanel. Lisa creates looks that suit people. Rather than painting over imperfections or concealing something perfectly, her aim is to emphasise existing facial features in the most flattering way. As an artist, you should never just work based on your own ideas and taste. You need to ask the client: what is it you find beautiful?

Is there a client who’s stuck in your mind?
I’ve had the pleasure of doing make-up for some great people during my career, including Rafael Nadal for the Babolat campaign. What a nice man he is. I also accompanied the Princess of Greece as her make-up artist on and off over a period of three years, so I ended up travelling around a lot with her.

You’ve started another project alongside your work as a make-up artist. Tell me more about that.
I’ve opened a small shop on Kernstrasse in Zurich and an online store The Beauty Kollektive, which you can also find on Galaxus as a marketplace merchant. We stock sustainable products that produce as little waste as possible.

What made you start that?
I noticed how much waste there is in the make-up world, such as cotton buds and disposable applicators that are single use for hygienic reasons. I didn’t want to be part of the problem any more. I started looking for alternatives, including products not tested on animals, which were even harder to find at the time.

How do you decide which products to include in your range?
My range is a bit like an expert selection. You’ll only find products that I use and approve of.

You’ve been part of a number of shoots over the course of your career. Which was the most complex?
It has to be the shoots for The Beauty Kollektive. When I’m booked for external campaigns, everything is ready on set once I arrive. It’s only then that I need to start working. However, when it comes to projects linked to my shop, I’m met with challenges throughout the entire process, from concept to execution. In one shoot, for instance, we wanted to photograph the product ingredients. But to do this, I had to get hold of the relevant raw materials in their original form, including things like flowers, mushrooms and mica pigments. It wasn’t as easy as you might think.

What are your favourite make-up products from your range?
The Vanilla Highlighter and Carrot Colour Pot for lips and cheeks in the colour Harmony, both from Ere Perez, a Mexican brand.

One last question: what does beauty mean to you?
I believe that someone who feels good on the inside is beautiful. I’ve seen traditional beauty too many times in my life. Obviously, it’s pretty to look at, but it’s nothing special. In a way, I even find it boring. I see true beauty in a person when they’ve found their purpose and radiate contentment and balance.